Yala Safari Part 2 (a)

1/3/17

D up before 5am for morning safari. I wimped out to give my back some respite from the shake rattle and roll off road experience.

I was planning time by the pool but weather is stormy. Dark skies and thunder as heavy rain at breakfast andcsimilar forecast for rest of day.

Might tske brolly snd walk through grounds to beach. Animal footprints near our chalet suggest warning signs are not just for show. Already seen monkeys on rooftop bar and birds, buffalo and crocodile at waterhole right by the path to our chalet room. Who needs a jeep?

Nice quiet breakfast as many other guests out on safari so sitting overlooking the pool watching the storm clouds and listening to thunder and bird song. Not a bad way to start the day.

I'll get D to write up his safari experience. If he sees bears ill be cross I didn't go.

Yala Safari Part 1

28/2/17 pm

Our second national park trip, this time in Yala, started at 1.30 in a rough looking vehicle. After 4 hours on rutted ground I can confirm it had little or no suspension. .Ouch my poor back. At least we didn't have to push start in (Jackie & Richard had that experience in Yala).

They say no pain no gain! It's a much bigger park so longer stretches of potholes between points of interest. However overall we did very well. Only a few mass gatherings of jeeps and plenty of wildlife. Highlights were leopards one pretty difficult to see lying on the horizontal branch of a tree some yards away. Binoculars were helpful although once our eyes focused in we could just see it with naked eye. Later we spotted a couple of jeeps by a rock off the main track. Joining them we were just in time to see a leopard strutting his stuff along the top of this large rock before taking shelter under a large boulder on the top. We continued watching his swishing tail and the occasional stretched out leg for quite a while but he wasn't budging. We had got a very clear view of him before he hid away.

Sightings of leopards is fairly rare so we were very pleased to see two. No sloth bears though...again they are there but rarely seen.

A few elephants but not as many as in Uda Walawe but that was expected. Two large solo males. A mother and baby too.

Lots of wild buffalo. ..bigger than the domestic sort we saw yesterday.

Wild boar. Samba deer  (small group in bushes). Large herds of white spotted deer.

A few mongoose. .One having a narrow escape as an eagle swooped to catch him...He accelerated to safety.

A few Hare. Land monitors. Crocodiles.

Good variety of birds including a good few eagles, toucans, minor birds, pea fowl,  jungle fowl, herons, Woolly necked adjutant, egrets, painted stork, pelican, bee catchers, Kingfisher, brahminy kite, stilts, hornbills.

No picturesque mountains but the sea and beach gives the park a good southern perimeter. Stopping for a comfort break we saw the ruins of a bungalow destroyed by the tsunami in 2004. About 45 tourists killled there as they had their packed breakfast.

Great experience but I think D will be going solo for the 5.30 repeat tomorrow. My back is giving out signals it's done enough off road work.

Roof top bar gives a view of the hotels waterhole with buffalo and Crocodiles. Grey Langer monkeys scampering around the railings gave me a start as it was getting dark. 

Eating in the patially open air al la carte restaurant tonight as can't cope with busy buffet. Escorts required to and from room in case of wild beasties. .escorts are armed. .with torches!

PS Internet is reasonable here so have updated the slow train to Ella blog and yesterday's blog with more pictures.

Elephant orphans and Yala

28/2/17 Tuesday

First stop to U W elephant transit home. Mixed feelings as this is a bit zoo like. They have about 30 young elephants that they feed until they are about 10 then released into the national park. Except for the poor old boy withe artificial foot..lost it in a trap.

The young elephants know the routine. They are allowed in a few at a time for a bottle feed via a tube. Some braver ones bully the smaller ones but wardens are boss. Some funny characters. They can certainly trot on from the gate to the feeding station.

On to Yala. Weather started humid, turned sunny then to monsoon style rain and wind. Now hot humid and sunny.

Roads in this area very new with dual carriageways which the locals have an interesting way of navigating. ..going the wrong way down the dual carriageway is common as shortest route rule applies.  Land monitors and mongoose crossing are also natural obstacles. New airport cricket stadium and roads built as president lives around here...Other areas not getting that type of improvements.

Group of wild boars seem happy to stop the traffic in the hope of some snacks.

Hotel is Cinnamon Wild. Little bunglows set in trees by water hole complete with buffalo and Crocodiles. Elephants, Sloth bears, Jackals, leopards might be spotted so escorts required from chalets at night.

Spa, Tea and Safari

26-27/2/17

You know how you have to fill out n a questionnaire at Spas detailing medical issues, areas to focus on or avoid etc?  When you have a very delicate back that's quite important. You know when the lady smiles a lot but says little there is probably quite a language barrier...and my sinhalese is non existent. So more sign language involved...fingers were crossed....

Spa was scruffy...brilliant view though until I had to have my face stuck downwards. Massage was head to toe and very thorough. I'm sure it was important to not miss out my ears and all my very wobbly bits. Then came hot stones.  I'd imagined those decorative pebbles placed in strategic points to allow heat and relaxation. Instead there is frequent reheating of a pad full of small granular substance dabbed all over... first few dabs each time involved more finger crossing that it was not going to burn!

After extra massage on my back..as requested. .It was into a murky slippy bath...herbal? Was nice to soak my back but the window was wide open to let in the view..and it was cold outside! Tried to keep maximum body parts submerged..but some bits like to float.

Not the most relaxing experience but she did give a thorough massage and I was able to walk away unaided.

Had another good meal. Opted for Coconut Roti with dhal and beef curry. D had beef stew and rice..fusion? Very cold evening and the rain has persisted. Forecast not great for a few days. SL has suffered from little rain over last few months with water shortages but the tide turned in Ella.

Monday am still a bit wet but less cloud allowed a great view through Ella Gap to the plain beyond...pointing the way to Uda Walawe and Yala, our next destinations.

Thank goodness for golf buggies that help take your luggage up the slope to Dommi's vehicle. Then to the tea factory where the green tea grown on the estate that surrounded our hotel. We'd seen the tea pickers going to the terraced tea bushes this morning. Originally from India as apparently more willing to work for $5 a day to pick 20kg in 8 hrs and share accommodation with 5 other families than the SL workers...fair trade logo in the factory so a indicator of conditions for non FT places.

The factory had no fresh leaves in first thing as they don't pick on a Sunday but we were shown the machines that dry,  grind and dry again. Tea was being sieved and graded and packed. Dusty environment. Has put us off tea bags as clearly the lower grade stuff is used. The mid graded tea gives a good light colour and flavour so after the tasting we did buy some to bring home.

En route to Uda Walawe we stopped to see the Ravana Falls..as Matthew says once you've seen Iguazu you don't need to see other waterfalls. To be fair Dommi gave us the story behind the name...take too long to retell but involved love story, a SL king, a princess from India,  caves and murder.

Couple of hours to Uda Walawe. We weren't too sure why Dommi wanted to buy 1kg of bananas from road side stall until we got close to U W national park. An elephant by the dam is often there so although I'm sure you are not supposed to feed wild elephants we couldn't resist.

Hotel is very close to the park. Checked in to find that we'd been upgraded to the best room..grand suite..with balloons and happy anniversary message in leaves on bed. Very nice. No cake..or so we thought..after dinner drinks interpreted by presentation of cake with candles! We shared it with other guests as even two pie Gamble can't manage 4 cakes in a week.

And yes I know our anniversary was in December but this holiday was to mark that occasion as well as our birthdays!

Wasn't too sure if the safari would be any good today as I'd read that they are too popular with too many jeeps chasing too few animals. Dommi chose to come with us and as he's been driving tourists like us for over 12 years I hoped that meant we might be in for a decent experience. Local jeep driver seemed to know the ropes. With him and Dommi knowing the area we had a great 3.5 hours. Off road jeeps on heavily rutted tracks is not what my chiropractor would recommend for my back but English medicine may see me through. Well worth the painful times.

Weather in U W is hot and sunny. The flat land are real contrast to the mountains in the background. Bright sun here but the hill country has interesting cloud formations..still raining there. Park vegetation is a mixture of grass, shrubs/bushes, small trees and some small areas of woodland with a large reservoir (called tanks) and smaller water holes. Ideal habitat for a variety of wildlife.

Distant glimpses of elephants and buffalo turned into close up and personal experiences. Lots of elephants...solo males, small groups of females with adolescents,  one group with an adorable baby about 2 months old,  a few young males, a single teenage tusker who was so close to us until an approaching jeep came up to fast and he gave them a mini charge and a filthy look...

Most of the buffalo are domestic. ..put into the park illegally by locals and taken home at night. A few wild ones. Large group of Crocodiles.  Spotted deer. Troop of Macaque monkeys including some tiny babies. A turtle. A land monitor. Lots of bird life including eagles, kites, painted stork, bee eaters, pea fowl, herons, Woolly necked adjutant, egrets, black headed ibis...and lots of others that I either don't know or have forgotten.

As the sun began to set we headed back. Beautiful colours on the hills again gave us scenes to wonder at.

We knew hotel buffet wouldn't be up to standard but attempts to persuade the staff to allow us to pay to go al la carte was just too difficult. .. I stuck to the cold options as hot =lukewarm despite us going in early. Cake was a nice touch and our fellow guests enjoyed it too.

Tomorrow the elephant transit home then Yala national park.

Photos now attached.

Wet day in Ella

Sunday 26th February 2017

Despite my plan to have a lie in, my bad back and mozzie bites picked up on the train ride yesterday meant by 5am I was awake and listening to the bird song. As we went to bed last night we heard nothing except the chirps and warbles from beetles and crickets. The view emerged at dawn from our huge balcony. A dizzying drop covered in tea bushes surrounded by hills, peaks and various levels of vegetation. Natural land marks such as Little Adams Peak, Ella Rock and Ella Gap right in front of us with nothing to block the view. Only 12 stone and wood built thatched roofed chalets clinging to the hillside. So pretty. Peaceful too.

Forecast cloud and rain proved right. Mild but not hot. More humid than UK but not disimilar to an English summer day. View and atmosphere is rather different. Mist layers move around the hills. We are on the East of the central hills/mountains...not sure how big a hill is until it becomes a mountain. Ella is about 1000 m. It has been very dry here but not today. Started as showers but rain has set in. The tea factory at the end of the drive was closed so we went to a good vewpoint to see the Nine Arches bridge and after a bit of a wait. ..the train was of course late...we saw our train trundle over the bridge. As my back is not up to walking on rough ground the Little Adams Peak walk was amended to a search for a source of pain relief drugs. Found a little stall attached to a doctor's premises and after a confusing discussion involving two languages and plenty of sign language I got the supplies I needed to beat my over sensitive back into submission.

This is an area for walking and trekking but on a wet day and with a bad back, the spa massage menu is tempting me..so I'm booked in at 4pm for massage, hot stones and herbal bath. Hard life on a wet day in Ella.

Tomorrow we will try and see the tea factory before going on safari in Uda Walawe.

The very slow train to Ella

24/25th February 2017

I know I'm being a fussy tourist but when a hotel sells itself on luxurious boutique experience with pool, spa and the highest quality cuisine I think I'd be forgiven for being disappointed when there are only 5 sunbeds, no spa and the worst food so far. Thai Chicken should be better than a plain chicken breast with a drizzle of bottled sweet and sour sauce...but it was at least heated to an acceptable level.  Never mind ..to be fair the young lads from the local area were very willing but just lacked decent management and training.  If it hadn't been one of the more expensive places on our tour and didn't promise more than it could deliver it would have been fine. There's a lot of hotels in SL so I think they may struggle if they don't take note of how other places are doing it. Looking forward to our next place.

So Saturday morning off to Ella by train.  Bad start to the day as when I bent to pack my suitcase I twanged my back. Ouch! Not surprised as its had a hammering from being jiggled about on bumpy roads. As usual muscle spasm hits. Out comes the medical bag. Thank goodness for English medicine as Dommi calls it...as apposed to the herbal medicine that he recommends as a slower but more permanent remedy for all ailments. Although he did have some Diclofenac gel in the vehicle!

Firstly we visited the large botanical gardens. En route Dommi pointed out the War Cementary with WW2 commonwealth and Italian soldiers graves.  SL suffered from Japanese bomber attacks but soldiers also fell foul of disease such as malaria.

The gardens are over a large area and as we only had an hour...and I was in some discomfort. .we opted for a guide and a golf buggy. Lazy way of doing it but meant we got to see it all and got a good commentary. Large mixed collection of trees, bushes and plants from all over the world. ..and the largest group of huge fruit bats you are likely to see in a park. They do kick up a fuss..like squabbling cats.

After that it was on to Kandy station. Collected our "first class" reserved seat tickets at the station that looks like something from an old movie. Old style ticket office, station master in cap and uniform. Trains are ancient and the overcrowding makes London underground look empty. Signals and points are all done manually with the old lever system.  Much of the route from Colombo to Bandulla is single track and so as the trains go through the stations the guard passes onto or collects a ring from the station master. They have it down to a fine art. Whistles and flags are used with vigour but level crossing gates are rare. People seem to use the tracks as pavements..

The timetables are clearly just for show. The earlier train was running an hour late. Ours only 35 mins late. Third class was rammed with people hanging out of open doorways. Air con = glass free windows. Standing room only. Second class..you get a seat. First class you get a seat and refreshments! Hard to describe how old and worn the engine and carriages are..I've seen newer looking ones in museums. Amazing they keep going at all. The journey to Ella over and through the hill country was timetabled to arrive at 6.30. Dommi didn't seem surprised when we eventually arrived at 8.45pm. Slow and wobbly...so wobbly you couldn't go to the loo unless the train had stopped without serious risk of damage to life, limb and clothing! How the staff managed to serve water, rice and curry, yoghurt, fruit, tea/coffee. .and later, filled roll and cake with more drinks...I don't know. They were great.

The views were spectacular as we went up to a height of about 2000m.  Through areas of cloud forest, terraced tea plantations and small vegetable farms. Steep drops, lots of lush vegetation, small waterfalls, hydropower dam and reservoir and some deer made the long very slow journey an amazing trip.

Sadly it was pitch dark for the last 2.5 hours..not helped to our destination as they discovered a faulty headlamp on the engine so it uncoupled, chugged away, was hand cranked round a turntable, reversed back. Recoupling involved the young steward with his mobile phone's torch assisting the engineer to reattach the power cable with the help of a bit of string. High tech. So now we had the rear lamps acting as head lamps we could complete the journey to Ella.

Thankfully Dommi had got his vehicle  waiting for us and had resisted the temptation of abandoning us for his lodgings. Our hotel, 98 Acres was just up on yet another hill. Too dark to see the view which we knew was waiting to be revealed at dawn but our 1st floor chalet style room was fabulous. Huge room..Massive bed..Sofa..huge well appointed en suite and thatched balcony. Birthday wishes spelt out in flowers and leaves on the bed and Happy Anniversary cake were really nice touches as was the warm welcome and herbal tea from the staff. Lots of steps to the restaurant but beautiful design, mixing natural materials with trendy yogo retreat style. Lovely selection on varied set menus. Our selections from the Sri Lankan rice and curry options were very tasty and more than we could manage. Staff were welcoming despite us being so late.

As my back is so sore we have ditched the planned trek round Horton Plain tomorrow so we can have a lie in.

Update 28/2/17 Just uploaded train photos that had previously fsiled